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From: Antonia Swierzy <atms2@cus.cam.ac.uk>
Newsgroups: alt.pets.rodents
Subject: Pet Rat Information Sheet (LONG)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 12:12:53 +0000
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************************************************************************
The following material is (C) 1997 A. Swierzy and A. Horn
It is intended for reference only and the authors who are not
veterinary professionals intend it as common-sense advice for people who
keep pet rats. All comments are welcome at atms2@cam.ac.uk
************************************************************************



Pet Rat Information Sheet



The purpose of this leaflet is to help readers keep healthy, happy pet
rats. Its main focus is upon animal welfare - what owners can do to give
their rats happy lives, and thus make them better pets. Please bear in
mind that good breeders and good pet shops put a lot of time and effort
into breeding and socialising pet rats; they will only breed from good
quality, healthy, friendly animals and will allow the mother to rest
between litters. The babies will have been regularly handled from a young
age - before their eyes have opened - and should be confident in human
company by the time they are ready to leave home, not hiding away or
urinating in fear when they are picked up. They will usually be over six
weeks old, and certainly no younger than five weeks; the breeder or pet
shop should be able to tell you their date of birth. They will have kept
male and female rats separate from the age of five weeks, because females
can become pregnant even at this age. Good breeders and good pet shops
will certainly care about the welfare of their animals, and will want to
make sure that you have suitable housing and know how to keep rats, before
they will let you buy any from them.

Rats as Pets
Rats are clean, intelligent, affectionate animals that bond to their human
companions in much the same way that dogs do, and with the right care
should provide a comparable level of companionship. They are the same
species as the wild brown rat, Rattus norvigicus, but have been
selectively bred for looks and temperament for at least the last century
and are now quite different in temperament from their ancestors. Rats
become very attached to their owners, make playful, sensitive pets, and
can be taught to come by name and learn a variety of tricks. Unlike many
other rodents, however, rats are a fairly high maintenance pet. They need
at least an hour's playtime outside their cage every day, and because they
are much more intelligent than many other small animals, can suffer
greatly if not given enough attention, free-range time, and environmental
stimulation. While rats are extremely rewarding pets and will repay any
attention and affection you give them a thousand fold, they may not be
suitable for everyone; if you cannot guarantee to give your rats at least
an hour of quality time every day, then perhaps a lower maintenance pet.
would be more suitable.

The more attention you give your new rats when you first get them home,
the sooner they will get used to your voice and your smell and begin to
make friends with you.  Handle your rats as much as possible, whether they
seem to like it or not at first -- they will soon learn to enjoy your
company. Unless a rat is very nervous or unwell, you cannot give it too
much attention or handling. One good way of getting your rats used to you
is to let them ride around the house on your shoulder or inside your
sweater. Rats should not be picked up by the tail -- they don't like it,
and it can cause injury. It is best to lift your rats by placing one or
both hands under the chest, behind the front legs -- but be careful not to
squeeze! Once your rats are used to you they will very likely run out of
their cage and up your arm. Many rats will come when called even if they
are roaming free range. Like all small animals they dislike loud noises
and rough handling, so it is very important that children learn to handle
rats carefully under close supervision; a pet rat should never bite, but
when scared by rough handling even the gentlest pet may try to defend
itself.

Rat Safety
Like many animals, rats can be destructive if left unsupervised for long
periods of time. You should make sure you know where your rats are while
they roam free range, and rat-proof any room that they are let loose in.
Rat-proofing requires a little common sense, but need not become a major
DIY project.  Many rats will scent-mark 'their' territory with tiny drops
of urine and you may want to keep a 'rat-blanket' to throw over soft
furnishings when the rats are out. Electrical cords that cannot be kept
out of reach of small teeth should be covered with aquarium tubing which
can be bought cheaply from most pet-shops; it is easiest to slit the
tubing along its length and  feed the flex into it. Rats will also chew
books, clothes, pencils and other items; they are also adept at knocking
things over. Breakables and valuable possessions should be put out of
harm's reach while your rats are out and about. Make sure that windows and
doors are closed, and that there are no possible escape routes. Rats can
fit through tiny holes, so you should check for cracks along skirting
boards, between floor-boards etc. It is strongly advised that you do not
wear shoes while your rats roam free-range. Some house plants can be
poisonous for animals, so it is probably most sensible to keep all plants
away from your rats.

Does and Bucks
It is very easy to tell the difference between male and female rats. Males
have large prominent testicles which are visible under the tail from well
before the age when they are ready to leave their mother. They can draw
their testicles up inside them if they are afraid, but will not do this
for a long period of time. A good rat breeder or staff at a good pet shop
will find it easy to tell which sex baby rats are.

Both male and female rats make great companion animals, although they have
different characteristics. Does (females) are smaller, more lithe and more
active than Bucks (males). Does have a smoother coat (unless they are
rexes, in which case they have a less curly coat); they have almost no
discernible smell and rarely scent-mark territory. Approximately once
every five days a doe will be in heat for around twelve hours. This
usually happens in the evening. You will notice that your doe is in heat
by changes in her behaviour: she will be jumpy, skittish, and may perform
a mating 'dance' by freezing, arching her back and fluttering her ears if
you tickle her haunches.  Bucks are larger and more laid-back than does.
Their coat is coarser and has a slight musky smell to it. While they are
as affectionate as does, they are much lazier, and when left free-range
will often curl up in a corner or on your lap. Some bucks scent mark
almost everything that they run into -- including their human companions
-- but this is not as disgusting as it sounds as the 'scent' is only a few
drops of urine and does not smell strongly.=20

Very rarely, a male may become overly aggressive towards his cage mate(s)
or hard to handle when he reaches 4-5 months of age (and sometimes later)
if his levels of male hormones are too high. This is not a usual
occurrence and should not be confused with the normal rough and tumble of
adolescent rats. A rat suffering from an excess of male hormones will
display "fight or flight" behaviour almost constantly: he will puff up his
fur, hiss and huff at other rats and people, and may attack or bite
cage-mates or his owners.  This condition can usually be cured by having
the rat neutered, and his hormonal levels and behaviour will soon return
to normal. If you must have a buck neutered, make sure that you use a vet
who has done this operation on rats before: rats have an internal muscular
structure unlike that of dogs and cats, and a  slightly different
procedure must be used (the inguinal canal must be stitched closed).
Neutering normally costs about =A330 (at time of writing -- 1996).  The
National Fancy Rat Society has a list of vets that have experience in
dealing with rats.

Growth and Lifespan
Rats are born after 21-23 days gestation. Rats have poor eyesight but
their senses of hearing and smell are many times more sensitive than ours.
Baby rats' eyes open when they are between 13-16 days old, although they
can hear and smell a few days after birth. Rats normally leave their
litter at 6 weeks of age; they are weaned from their mother at 4-5 weeks,
but benefit greatly from staying with their litter and being socialised
until 6 weeks, since the period from 2-6 weeks of age is a crucial stage
in the rat's mental and social development. It is important that rats are
allowed to stay with their litter until this age, and the National Fancy
Rat Society does not allow baby rats to be sold before they are six weeks
old. Rats normally become fertile around 5 weeks of age, but does have
been known to get pregnant as young as 3 1/2 weeks! (This is only an issue
if young does are introduced to older males: young does are not at risk of
being impregnated by their litter-brothers until after 5 weeks of age).
Rats grow rapidly until they reach 12-14 weeks. After this, the growth
slows down but many rats continue to fill out until they reach six months
of age.  Adult bucks usually weigh 400-600g,  does around 200-400g. As
long as a rat has been handled as a youngster, it will bond to you no
matter how old it is when you first get it. Rats usually live for between
two and three years;  a big cage, other rats for company, a healthy diet,
and  lots of exercise is the best way of making sure that your rats have a
long life.


Social Life: Rats Need Company
Rats are highly intelligent, social animals, and although they enjoy the
companionship of humans, they thrive in -- and need -- the company of
their own species. Rats should never live alone and ideally should be kept
in groups of two or more of the same sex. It is unfair and cruel to
deprive any social animal of the company of its own species. Rats enjoy
grooming each other, curling up to sleep together, and sometimes even
fighting. It is usual for rats to fight occasionally, especially when they
are 'teenagers' between 3 and 6 months old; do not worry about this unless
you see serious injuries, as the rats are just establishing a pecking
order. =20

No matter how much time you can spend with your rat, you will never be
able to replace the attentions of his own species. Do not forget that a
rat's most active time is in the middle if the night, when most rat owners
are unlikely to be able to provide their pet with companionship. One fear
expressed by potential rat-owners is that if they get more than one rat,
the animals will bond together and be less tame as a result. The opposite
is usually the case, as solitary rats can easily become clingy,
introverted and neurotic.  Rats kept in pairs or groups are happier, more
confident, and no more difficult to tame. There is, in fact, no valid
argument for keeping rats alone, but many good reasons to let them live in
single-sex pairs or groups: two rats are as easy to look after as one, a
cage that is big enough for one rat is big enough for a pair, two rats are
much happier and live longer than single rats -- and they're many times
more interesting to watch!!

It is easiest to introduce rats to their companions when they are young
(preferably under 10 weeks old). When introducing adult rats, first clean
out the cage thoroughly to remove territorial scents from the resident
rat. Dab both rats with perfume or vanilla essence (to disguise their
smells) and introduce them on neutral territory, not in a cage which one
recognises as its own. There will usually be some fighting for the first
few days after they are introduced. This is not usually serious, but to
avoid it you may prefer to introduce them gradually, letting them first
just sniff each other and then work up to putting them in the same cage
over about a week. It is harder to introduce adult male rats to other
adult males, and such introductions need to be done over several weeks.
However, it is usually fairly easy to introduce an adult male to a very
young baby male.

While it is possible to sex baby rats from birth with a little practice,
it is impossible to confuse does and bucks from four weeks onwards, as by
this age the male's testicles have dropped and are clearly apparent. While
baby rats are weaned before five weeks of age, they should not leave their
litter until they are at least six weeks old. Any pet shop or breeder who
claims that their baby rats cannot be definitely sexed yet is selling them
far too young, does not have the animals' best interests at heart, and
should be avoided at all costs.


Housing
Unlike rabbits and guinea pigs, domesticated rats are not hardy in cold
weather and as such must live indoors. For this reason they need a cage
rather than just a hutch. Your rats will spend most of their lives in a
cage, and because they are such intelligent, active animals, it is a shame
to keep them in a small space. There is no such thing as a cage that is
'too big' for pet rats -- giving your animals more space is an easy way to
make their lives more interesting. As a bare minimum, the floor-space
should be at least 24" long and 12" wide, but I would stress that this is
the minimum acceptable cage size and most pet owners want to give their
pets more than the minimum. It is really important to check the dimensions
of any cage before you buy; it can be hard to guess accurately, and a few
inches of space can make a lot of difference to animals as small as rats.

Wire cages are by far the best housing for rats. In addition to providing
good ventilation they are a ready-made rat climbing-frame, and can be
easily converted into a rat adventure playground with a little imaginative
use of ropes, ladders, tree branches, shelves, hammocks, and flowerpots
attached to the sides. In addition to a minimum of two square feet of
floor-space, you should try to get a nice tall cage for your rats: they
love to climb and you can maximise the available space by making shelves.
The simplest shelves are melamine boards which can be slid between the
bars of the cage; they are convenient to remove and can be wiped down.
Fer-Plast and other companies make excellent, reasonably priced 'parrot'
cages (such as the Fer-Plast Sonia 24" long x 15" wide x 25" high or the
Immac Gabbie Dora ) that are suitable for rats -- although it is worth
shopping around as prices can vary by as much as 100%; animal exhibitions
are a great place to get large cages at wholesale prices. Used ads papers
(such as LOOT in London) and classified ads are also good places to find
cheap cages; make sure that you disinfect and rinse any second-hand cage
thoroughly to kill any bacteria that may be living in it. A Hamster cage,
no matter how 'large' is not suitable for adult rats: even the three-story
'hamster-palaces' do not have enough floor space or climbing
opportunities. Some wire cages made especially for ferrets, chinchillas,
or laboratory use, have wire floors with a pan below to catch droppings.
Do not be tempted by the ease with which these can be cleaned, nor by
their elimination of the need for a 'litter' for the floor: wire cages
can, and often do, cause a painful and incurable condition called
bumblefoot in rats. Bumblefoot, a severe irritation and swelling of the
hocks, makes it painful and difficult for rats to walk, and cannot be
cured. If you do buy a cage with a wire floor, remove the wire floor and
set the cage in the litter tray. Wire shelves can (and should) be easily
covered with off-cuts of linoleum.

In addition to climbing opportunities and good ventilation, a cage allows
you to interact with your rats -- you can feed and stroke them through the
bars. Rats have keen senses of hearing and of smell; a cage provides extra
stimulation as your rats can pick up new smells and sounds which they find
interesting.

An aquarium can be a sound second option if, for some reason, a cage is
not suitable or available. Aquariums offer less climbing opportunities,
but this can be overcome with a little imagination and the use of some of
the items listed above. However, aquariums can have poor ventilation, so
it is important to make sure that the lid allows plenty of air to
circulate (a fan close to the tank is recommended), and that the tank is
kept scrupulously clean: Ammonia build-up from urine can irritate rats'
respiratory tracts. Aquariums do have the advantage of keeping the rats
bedding, food etc. in their home and away from your furniture and carpets,
and they provide a measure of security for rats who live in cat-owning
households (although make sure that the lid is cat-proof!!).

A halfway house between an aquarium and a wire cage is the Fer-Plast Duna,
a large (approx. 2.5' x 19" x 23") plastic tank with a sliding wire top.
While the Duna offers limited climbing opportunities and has
unsatisfactory ventilation, it is extremely easy to clean (it can be taken
apart).  Fer-Plast do a whole series of cages similar to the Duna, some of
which have raised wire portions on top which could provide some climbing
opportunities and improved air circulation. While the Duna is super as a
nursery for baby rats as it is secure and drought-proof, it should only be
used for adults when there are no other feasible options (the Savic Rody
is a similar cage).

In addition to a cage, your rats will need a nest box. This is a place to
hide or sleep in which allows the rats to feel secure. A nest box can be
improvised from a small empty cardboard box, a large clean empty jar, or a
small bucket with a hole cut in the side.

Rat Toys
Baby rats enjoy playing with toys and each other, whilst adult rats tend
to use toys for sleeping in or on and reserve their play for humans or
other rats. All sorts of objects can be useful for both purposes - some
ideas are lengths of plastic drainpipe, large drainpipe connectors,
lengths of wide drainage pipe, large glass jars, cardboard boxes, and old
clothes. Small toys intended for hamsters or gerbils are good for baby
rats. Some rats will run on wheels, but usually they are not interested in
them -- probably because they are too intelligent. Wheels with spokes are
very dangerous for rats -- legs, tails, or even heads can be damaged in
them as one tries to jump on while another is running. Toys intended for
ferrets are generally safe and suitable for rats, if you can find them.=20

Litter and Bedding
Wood shavings are the most commonly available litter sold to line the
bottom of small animals cages. Unfortunately wood shavings are not an
ideal litter for rats as they give off essential oils and can be very
dusty. As both aromatic oils and dust can irritate rats' respiratory
tracts, shavings are especially unsuitable for rats prone to respiratory
infections. The worst culprit is red cedar shavings which are only now
being introduced to the UK as a deodorising bedding. Scientific research
suggests that the aromatic oils in cedar bedding can cause serious health
problems such as damage to the liver and consequently, to the immune
system of animals kept on it. While pine and spruce shavings do not carry
the same degree of risk, there is at least anecdotal evidence that their
long-term use causes similar health problems, and for this reason they are
probably best avoided. Health problems such as those discussed above can
only be diagnosed in a post-mortem examination. While it is unlikely that
you will notice any dramatic change in the health of your pet as a result
of changing cage litters, it is wisest to use a litter that presents few
or no potential health problems to your pets. By avoiding shavings
altogether, it is possible that your rats could live longer and suffer
fewer illnesses. =20

Unfortunately there are not many alternatives to wood shavings in the UK
at the moment, but there are two products that are worth keeping an eye
out for:

Bio-Catolet (tm) -- pellets of recycled paper. Sterile and dust-free, this
litter is many times more absorbent than wood-shavings, and is much better
at controlling odour. Although on a Kg to Kg. basis it is more expensive
than wood shavings, Bio-Catolet is far more efficient: you use much less
and change it less often than wood (for example, once  rather than twice
weekly for an average-sized cage containing two females). Because of its
efficiency Bio-Catolet is good value for money. It can be found in large
branches of ASDA, Sainsburys, and Tescos nationwide, or telephone the
distributor Jenks at (01492) 442446 to find your nearest stockist.

CareFRESH (tm)-- currently being imported from the US, and made of
recycled
non-aromatic wood pulp. Dust-free and sanitised, it has good green
credentials but is less absorbent and odour-eating than Bio-Catolet. Some
(human) users have complained that they don't like the smell, others rave
about how mess-free it is. Phone Absorption Europe at 0171-272-7720.

In a pinch, shredded paper-towels can be a safe stop-gap until you buy
more litter. Normal cat litter -- even the dust-free kind -- is not
appropriate for rats: the dust and clay can be hazardous to their health.
Because the ink in newsprint can be toxic and paper quickly becomes very
smelly, newspaper is not a suitable bedding. Straw is not recommended as a
bedding as it can harbour mites, does little to absorb liquid or eliminate
odour, and has been known to puncture  rats' eyes.

Food
 Like people, rats are omnivores and fare best on fresh wholesome foods:
brown rice, vegetables, grains (wheat, barley, oats, millet), whole meal
bread, etc. and some animal protein. High protein puppy food is useful as
a supplement to help build up young rats (up to 10-12 weeks), and normal
to low protein dry dog food is a good component of a healthy diet.
Ideally, an adult rat should  be fed some whole-grains, some vegetables,
and some protein (lean meat scraps, dog food or meal worms) every day.
This can be supplemented with a bowl of 'rodent mix' as a snack food.
Debbie Ducommon of the Rat Fan Club has devised an excellent recipe for
rat health food that appears to boost immune reaction and general health,
see the Rat Fan Club (below) for details.=20

While such home-made nutritionally complete diets are ideal and are
strongly recommended, it is also possible to give your rat a well-balanced
diet using pet-shop mixes as a base. Reggie Rat made by Supreme Pet Foods
is specially formulated with the nutritional needs of rats in mind. In
theory it is a complete food, but your rats will always appreciate healthy
fresh snacks as  treats. As it is quite high in fat and protein, Reggie
Rat is not recommended for rats that  put on weight easily. A less rich
option is a good quality rabbit food like Burgess Super Rabbit
supplemented with fresh vegetables, some animal protein (mealworms, lean
meat or dog biscuit), and the odd cooked meat bone (chicken bones are fine
-- the rats just crunch them up) or natural yoghurt to provide extra
calcium.

The following foods can be used as treats / supplements to the regular
diet: fruit (apples, cherries, grapes, banana etc.), vegetables (broccoli,
potatoes, peas, carrot etc.), cooked liver, kidney, or other low-fat meat,
cooked bones, cooked pulses (cooked Soya protein may reduce the risk of
cancer), live yoghurt, sunflower seeds (an exceptional source of B
vitamins!), wholemeal pasta and bread, brown rice, unsweetened breakfast
cereals, and the occasional capsule of cod-liver or garlic oil. Table
scraps will be eaten with relish, but try to avoid feeding fatty or sugary
scraps. Carbonated drinks should never be given to rats as they cannot
burp, and the build-up of gasses in the stomach from fizzy drinks could be
fatal. Bear in mind that dietary fat has been linked to tumours in rats,
and keep fatty foods like peanuts and sunflower seeds as treats. =20

There is conflicting evidence about whether maize (sweetcorn) is suitable
for rat's diets: some  laboratory studies claim that maize causes
increased  levels of certain enzymes in rats (and humans!) that may
encourage the formation of cancerous tumours. Other scientific studies
have been unable to prove any relationship between maize and cancer. As
such, this is a decision probably best left to each individual owner. A
good way of letting your rats enjoy sweetcorn without gorging themselves
on it is to give them the remains of a  cooked corncob from which you have
already removed the kernels.=20

Fresh water should be available at all times, preferably in a gravity
(ball-valve) bottle which will keep the water clean. Water should be
changed daily, and the bottle should be scrubbed out once a week. If using
a plastic bottle, it is a good idea to  replace it every few months, to
prevent excessive bacteria build-up. Vitamin supplements should be added
to food rather than to drinking water -- vitamins make the water taste
horrible, and may discourage your rats from drinking. In any case, rats
fed a healthy, well-balanced diet should not need to have vitamin
supplements.

Grooming
Rats are extremely clean creatures, and spend almost a third of their
waking life grooming. As such, it is rarely necessary to bathe rats, with
the exception of light-coated varieties which may need the occasional
'stain-removal' session if you wish to show them. If you decide that your
rat needs bathing, make sure that you use a shampoo formulated for animals
-- a kitten or puppy shampoo is best -- as human shampoo can irritate
their skin.=20

Some rats do not clean their tails thoroughly and can develop dark stains
or patches on their tails. If you wish to clean your rat's tail you should
do so with an old, soft toothbrush and either a gentle soap / animal
shampoo, or bicarbonate of soda. Wet the tail and apply the soap/shampoo /
soda.  Very gently stroke the rat's tail with the dampened toothbrush,
always brushing away from the body towards the tip of the tail. Do not
brush your rat's tail roughly as this can damage or even remove the
delicate skin on the tail, and can be very painful for your pet.

Some rat owners like to have their pets' nails trimmed regularly. This can
be quite difficult and for the first time I would advise you to visit a
vet or experienced rat owner  -- a show can be a great opportunity for
this -- and have them show you how to do it. Styptic powder
(anti-bleeding) is a useful thing to keep on hand if you intend to cut
your rats' nails as accidentally nicking the vein inside the nail can
cause serious blood loss. Putting a large (cleaned) stone in your rats
cage for them to climb on can also wear down their nails.

Changing the bedding (tissues, kitchen towel, etc.) in your rats' cage
daily will prevent them from becoming too smelly.  It is also a good idea
to give your rats a bowl of water  every now and again so that they can
wash themselves.=20


Health Problems
The full range of health problems that your rat may encounter during its
lifetime clearly can not be addressed in a leaflet of this length, and
what follows should by no means be considered a substitute for veterinary
care. A good veterinarian who is experienced in dealing with rats is
invaluable,  and it is a good idea to find one before  a potential problem
arises.  Please see notes at the end of this document for the addresses of
vets that I have used and personally recommend. The National Fancy Rat
Society (see details below) also keeps a register of recommended vets all
over the country. Veterinary care for rats need not be expensive -- I have
been charged between =A36-8 per visit at various clinics, and often two rat=
s
can be included in the cost of one consultation.=20

Any surgical operation carries a risk that the animal will not survive the
anaesthetic, but modern inhalant anaesthetics are far safer than the
older-style injectables. In particular try to find a vet who uses
Isoflurane anaesthetic -- it is very safe for small mammals, complications
are extremely rare, and they recover quickly from it.  After an operation,
rats often try to remove their stitches and you can stop this by applying
Johnson's Anti-Peck (sold to stop caged birds pecking themselves or
others) or Bitter Bite (a repellent product similar to bitter apple, but
more effective and marketed for dogs and cats) over and around the wound.

If one of your rats appears to be unwell, a vet should be consulted as
soon as possible: although rats are hardy little creatures, they can go
into decline very quickly, and by putting off seeing a vet you may be
greatly minimising their chances of survival.

A few common symptoms of rat-ailments are:
Red Discharge Around the Eyes and/or Nose: Not an  ailment in itself, but
a symptom of distress. Rats' mucus is stained red with a pigment called
porphyrin (indeed, the mucus is commonly referred to as porphyrin). This
discharge may be present if your rat is ill or simply stressed (as, for
example, from moving house). Observe the animal carefully, and if it
appears unwell  or if the discharge continues for more than a few days,
consult a vet.

General Signs of Illness: the animal is hunched up, lethargic, coat
staring (fluffed up and messy), uninterested in food or attention. Eyes
may be half closed and breathing may appear laboured.  If your rat shows
these symptoms or others that worry you, consult a vet.

Head-weaving   is often seen in rats with pink or red eyes. The rat will
usually stand still and weave its head from side to side for a while. This
is perfectly normal; all rats are short-sighted (although they can sense
movement from some distance, they can only focus for a few feet), but any
animal with pink or red eyes has worse eyesight than those with dark eyes.
Moving the head from side to side helps the rat to judge distances and the
depth of objects by making them appear to move. This should not be
considered a fault or problem - rats sense smells, sounds and movement (by
feeling vibrations on the floor) much more than humans, and can cope
perfectly well with limited eyesight. Note that there is a different,
unrelated condition called head tilt or wry-neck, where the rat holds its
head on one side permanently. This is caused by a inner-ear infection and
needs veterinary treatment.

Sneezing/Wheezing/Noisy Breathing: Often the sign of a respiratory
infection. Virtually all pet rats are infected with an organism called
mycoplasma bacillus which is a primary infection that inhabits their
respiratory system. Many rats can carry mycoplasma without appearing to
suffer any illness, while others are not able to carry the infection
unharmed. These rats will usually start to sneeze as young adults; they
then develop some damage to the respiratory tract (lungs, windpipe, etc.)
which makes it easier for bacteria to enter and cause an infection. This
is usually what has happened when a rat starts to wheeze, and if a great
deal of damage is caused to the respiratory tract, the rat may develop
emphysema, bronchitis, pneumonia and lung abscesses.  Although sneezing is
not necessarily a sign of serious illness (most rats sneeze at some point
in their lives), a rat that sneezes frequently and for an extended period
should be observed for any other signs of illness. If your rat's breathing
appears laboured, wheezy, or has a rattley sound, consult a vet
immediately. When treated early secondary respiratory infections can often
be kept at bay with a strong course of antibiotics (see antibiotic therapy
below). =20

While sneezing or snuffling may be the result of the irritation of the
respiratory tract from dust and phenol oils if the rat is kept on
shavings, it is most likely that a rat that shows signs of respiratory
distress is suffering from a secondary infection in the upper respiratory
tract. Bacterial infections in the upper respiratory tract often sound far
more serious that they are, and if the affected animal is treated with
liquid echinacea in honey-flavoured water (to disguise the taste of the
echinacea tincture), the infection may be cleared without the use of
antibiotics. A pro-biotic supplement (such as Entrodex  from Vydex Animal
Health -- see below) can give an immense boost to the immune system, and
can occasionally even clear infections. Unlike echinacea, pro-biotic
supplements can be given for extended periods of time without any negative
consequences and without the rat developing a tolerance to the product.
Live yoghurt (containing beneficial bacterial cultures) are also a useful
supplement; however the cultures that they contain are largely destroyed
by intestinal juices before they are able to have any noticeable effect.
For this reason, specialised pro-biotic products like Entrodex which
specifically target the intestine and are able to withstand gastric
acidity for long enough to colonise the gut and multiply, are more
effective, and as such, more highly recommended.

Tumours: Some rats develop tumours as they get older. Female rats are more
likely to develop tumours than males, and rats fed on a high-fat diet are
also more at risk. The most common form are benign mammary tumours, which
start off as a small, pea-like lump usually in the rats' groin or armpit,
or along her side, and grow steadily. They do not usually cause any
distress until they either seriously impede the rat's movement or start to
ulcerate and become sore, or outgrow their blood supply. If your rat
develops a tumour then you can decide either to have it surgically removed
or to have her put to sleep when she becomes unhappy. You do not need to
put her to sleep as soon as a tumour appears - she may have many months of
happy life ahead of her before it starts to hurt, and as the rat's owner
you will be the best person to decide when she is no longer enjoying life.
If you decide to have the tumour removed and it is benign, the operation
is relatively simple and need not be stressful for the rat if she is
otherwise healthy. Tumour removal usually costs around =A330 (1996 prices)
and, again, it is helpful to find a vet with experience in this area.
However, bear in mind that a rat who is prone to tumours may well develop
others after a first tumour is removed. This does not mean that it is not
worth having the operation done - the rat could well gain at least an
extra 3 or 4 months of life, which is comparable to 6-8 years for a human
- but you need to take into account her overall health and your vet's
opinion as to whether the tumour can be operated on.

Skin Irritation: Usually paired with excessive scratching. Although it is
possible that your rat has contracted mites, it is far more likely that it
is scratching scabs caused by a dietary problem such as an intolerance to
certain types of protein, or an adverse reaction to artificial additives
in processed pet food. Before treating for mites  (unless they are clearly
visible), remove the majority of protein sources from your rat's diet
(peanuts, sunflower seeds, and dog food that is too high in protein are
common culprits), clip the back toenails, and treat the existing skin
abrasions or scabs with an antiseptic ointment. Certain brands of dog
food, and the brightly coloured biscuit often found in rodent mix are the
usual causes of adverse reactions to artificial additives. Not all rats
will react the same way to the same foods, and a useful way to eliminate
this problem is to change all of your rats' diet to a home-made fresh
diet, that contains no chemical additives. After 10 days of an altered
diet (either very low protein or preservative free), all signs of
irritation and scratching should have disappeared; if they remain, contact
your vet to consider other options.

Antibiotic Therapy:=20
While antibiotics can be a useful tool to fight bacterial infection in
rats, they should never be used without the instruction of a veterinarian.
Microbiologists and veterinarians who specialise in rat care have noted
more frequent and severe outbreaks of bacterial infections among pet rats
in recent years.  Over-use of antibiotics in animal medicine is thought to
have contributed  greatly to the cases of antibiotic-resistant bacteria
now in evidence. Every time an antibiotic is used there is a risk that it
will encourage the emergence of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, which
threatens humans and animals worldwide.  Another disadvantage of using
antibiotics is that there is evidence suggesting that, in the long run,
they harm the health of the patient. This is partly because antibiotics
destroy bacteria that live in the animal's gut, and which help make some
vitamins and minerals which the body needs. It is therefore a good idea to
feed some sort of pro-biotic supplement during and after a course of
antibiotics. If you do decide to use antibiotics they should be given only
when prescribed by a vet who has examined the animal. A rat which shows a
tendency to succumb to infection should never be bred from, as the
tendency towards respiratory illness appears to be partly hereditary, and
it is likely that offspring and resulting generations will have weakened
immune systems.  It is important to obtain rats from breeders who have
been selecting for healthy animals; a persistent sneezer, or a rat which
wheezes, should not be bred from.

If antibiotics must be used, it is important that the entire course is
used up, otherwise the malignant organism being treated is likely to
return in a stronger, antibiotic-resistant form.  Experts vary in their
opinion of the best way to administer antibiotics; some believe that they
should be given for at least a week after all symptoms disappear. Others,
worried about the damage that antibiotics can do to the natural bacterial
balance in a rat's body suggest a cycle of ten days on the medicine
followed by a rest period of five days off to be repeated two or three
times, with the rat fed live yoghurt and / or pro-biotic supplements
during the five days 'off' to replenish gut flora and minimise damage to
the immune system. In some cases of respiratory disease, your vet may
advise two courses of different antibiotics  -- one following the other --
to combat the primary and secondary infections respectively.=20

A pro-biotic supplement can also be used to boost a rat's immunity when it
is run-down, unwell, or stressed (as from traveling), and may help prevent
serious illnesses. Rats can be given a pro-biotic supplement throughout
their lives without it doing them any harm. Entrodex manufactured by the
Vydex Animal Corporation Health (01222) 578220 also contains vitamins and
electrolytes: it can be added to the drinking water one or two days a week
for healthy animals, or every day for ailing or elderly rats.

Echinacea is a herb that appears to boost immune response in many species
including humans and rats. A few drops of echinacea tincture (available at
most health shops, but cheapest at Neal's Yard Remedies in London - can be
ordered by post) can be added to the drinking water of sick rats; a few
drops of honey can be added too disguise the taste. As the body quickly
develops a tolerance for echinacea, it is not recommended that you use it
for more than three weeks at a time. Alternatively, you can give it to the
sick animal for one week out of four.

Obesity: Fat Rats. One of the best ways that you can insure that your rats
lead long healthy lives is to make sure that they do not get fat. Fat rats
live shorter lives, are prone to tumours, are more susceptible to
infection, and less likely to recover from surgery. Does should be sleek
and lean, and bucks muscular; neither should feel soft and squashy nor
should they feel bony. Like people, rats often enjoy foods that are bad
for them, and like children, rats will usually choose fatty or sweet foods
over healthy ones. It is up to you to make sure that your rats eat
healthily, and you may find it better to save treats for hand-feeding
after your rats have eaten their healthy food. A healthy balanced diet,
regular exercise (at least an hour outside the cage every day), and large,
clean living conditions will insure that your rats' lives are lived to the
fullest.

In hot weather it is important to protect rats from heat exhaustion and
dehydration. rats regulate their temperature mainly through the tail and
foot-pads, so if you provide a bowl of cold water a hot rat can cool
herself down by paddling in it. A fan placed near to the cage will provide
a cooling breeze. You can also give your rats frozen vegetables (e.g.
peas) as ice-lollies, and ice cubes can be added to their water-dish. Make
sure that the cage is not in direct sunlight in hot weather.


Breeding
Rats should be kept in single-sex groups; if you keep un-neutered males
and females together, they will produce a litter of 8-18 babies every 3-4
weeks for at least a year, leaving the mother exhausted and the babies
undernourished. Baby rats become fertile after 5 weeks of age, so males
and females must be kept separate after this time. Where a mating is
planned, it is easier to reintroduce the male to his male cage-mates if he
is only allowed to stay with the female for a short time - he can be left
with her for an evening when she is in heat, or perhaps overnight. A
pregnant doe can be left with her (female) cagemates until a day or so
before she is due to give birth.

It is not recommended that you leave a male and female together after
mating. Although male rats make good fathers, a buck that has lived with a
female for any length of time is almost impossible to reintroduce to his
male companions. Furthermore, does go into heat --  the post partum estrus
-- within hours of giving birth. If you leave the male rat in with the
mother she will undoubtedly get pregnant immediately after giving birth
and her health and that of her offspring will be greatly compromised as
she tries to suckle one liter while another grows in her belly.=20

Before breeding from your rats, please consider carefully whether you will
be able to find suitable homes for a large litter. Pet shops will not
always be able to take unwanted babies off your hands, and if you are at
all concerned for the welfare of your baby rats then you should only offer
them to a pet shop if it has an excellent reputation and the staff are
knowledgeable. Be warned that many pet shops sell rats as feeders for
snakes - but the best will only sell them as pets.=20

If you do decide to breed, we strongly recommend reading the chapters on
breeding and rearing rats in Nick Mays' The Proper Care of Fancy Rats, and
if possible contacting the breeder of your own rats for advice. It is a
basic requirement that both parents are friendly and healthy -- there are
large hereditary aspects to the temperament and functioning of the immune
system, so rats which are aggressive or sickly are likely to produce
babies which share these characteristics. The female should be at least 4
months old so that she has had time to mature. If a female has not bred a
litter by the age of 8 months then there is a risk that she will have
difficulty giving birth, but if she has produced a litter before this age
then she may be bred from until she is around a year old, providing that
she is healthy and in good condition. The mother must be left with her
kittens until they are fully weaned at 4-5 weeks, but they will not be
ready to go to new homes until about a week after weaning (in order for
the breeder to make sure that the babies are well handled, healthy, and of
good temperament). To preserve the health and condition of the mother she
must be allowed a rest of at least a couple of weeks after weaning one
litter of kittens before she is mated to produce another.

Books About Rats
Although there are several books about rats in print at the moment, none
provides a satisfactory all-round guide to keeping rats as pets, and
several are desperately inaccurate. The best of those currently available
is The Proper Care Of Fancy Rats by Nick Mays (TFH, ISBN 0-86622-933-X)
which has descriptions of the various types of rat within the British rat
fancy, and scores of colour photographs. The 'Health' section should be
given a miss, however, as it is somewhat outdated. Rats - a complete pet
owner's manual by Carol Himsel, published by Barron's, is better on health
but poor on husbandry / pet care.=20

The National Fancy Rat Society Handbook is worth owning -- it contains
some basic information about health, colour and coat types, genetics etc.
A new edition is currently in preparation. In the meanwhile, copies of the
old edition can be obtained from the NFRS (=A33.50 NFRS members, =A34.50
others).

The Rat Health Care booklet written by Debbie Ducommon of the US-based
"Rat Fan Club" (see below) is a useful guide for rat-owners. The booklet
discusses many aspects of rat care ranging from diet and housing to
medication and grooming. Although by no means the last word on rat health
care, the Rat Health Care booklet is an invaluable resource and is highly
recommended. Be aware however, that this is an American publication and
many things that it takes for granted are considered highly undesirable in
the UK: for example, 'freak' strains of rats promoted in the USA such as
hairless, tailless, and "Dumbo" that often suffer from severe health
problems; the prophylactic use of antibiotics; and the spaying of female
rats which (in the authors' view) is a high-risk invasive operation
with more risks than benefits to the animal. Cultural differences aside,
this booklet contains immense amounts of valuable information that cannot
(yet) be found in other publications. The NFRS has imported some copies,
which can be bought for around =A34 Stlg., or you can contact Debbie
Ducommon at the address below.

Other Places to Find Information about Rats:
There is a wealth of rat-related information on the internet. The best way
to find WWW pages containing ratty information is to use a search-engine
(like 'Yahoo' or 'Infoseek') and type in the word "rat" or "rats". The Rat
and Mouse Club of America's home page (http://www.rmca.org) has links to
dozens of other rat pages, so might be a good place to begin a search.

The Rats Mailing List is an e-mail discussion group that provides a forum
for the members of the list to discuss all manner of thing pertaining to
rat care and ownership. Although some serious matters about health and
husbandry are discussed, the majority of the 30-50 daily postings that you
will receive from the list if you subscribe, will be anecdotal stories
about 'cute' or amusing things that members of the list's pet rats have
done. The Rats List is great for those who enjoy chatting about the joys
of rat ownership. To subscribe send an e-mail (with the subject line
blank) to rats-requests@lists.best.com with the message body containing
the word "info" on one line and "end" on the next. You will then be sent a
message containing information on how to subscribe and list protocol.=20

rec.pets and alt.pets.rodents on usenet are two newsgroups that have a lot
of rat-related postings.

A caution regarding internet/e-mail/usenet rat-related sources: Although
many interesting and informative discussions take place on the internet,
bear in mind that you shouldn't believe everything you read, and that
although some of the posters may have a lot of knowledge and experience,
many of the 'experts' are pet owners with limited experience. While you
may learn a lot from such resources, it is best not to rely on information
gained from newsgroups, mailing lists or other internet sources unless you
are certain that the author is knowledgeable and trustworthy. If in doubt,
contact your vet, the National Fancy Rat Society, or an experienced
rat-owner/breeder  with your query.  =20

Rat Clubs
It is hard to find accurate information about rat care and health because
rats have only become popular pets in recent years. Joining a club or
society is the best way to find out how to care for your rats, and to keep
up to date with the latest developments in rat husbandry. Clubs can also
help you get the most out of your pet rats by giving advice on socialising
them and so on.  The following are highly recommended:
=20
The National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS)  can be a great help to both the pet
owner and those who are interested in showing or breeding rats. It runs
regular shows throughout the country, has a bi-monthly journal (Pro-Rat-A)
which gives down-to-earth, reliable advice on pet care, and experts in the
Society are available to help with any queries that you might have. For
membership details send an SAE to the Membership Co-ordinator (address
below). The NFRS also runs a kitten register (for finding or selling
rat-kittens) and has a register of recommended rat-friendly vets.

The Rat Fan Club is an American organisation dedicated to the care of pet
rats. It has several members in the UK (you can pay by credit-card) .
Every monthly  Rat Report  newsletter  features games to play with your
rats, toys to make for them, and tricks to teach them. Attitudes towards
other aspects of animal care can differ significantly from those in the
UK, but the Rat Report  is still highly informative.

Some other clubs include the Rat and Mouse Club of America which publishes
a bi-monthly glossy magazine, the Rat and Mouse Gazette; and the London
and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club  which holds a Rat and Mouse show
on the first Saturday of most months at the Fourth Enfield Scout HQ,
Gordon Road, Enfield, London (nearest BR Station: Enfield Town).=20

The National Fancy Rat Society
Membership Co-ordinator
14 Clayhall House, Somers Close
Reigate Surrey  RH2 9EB

London and Southern Counties Mouse and Rat Club
Albert Collins
29 Stortford Road, Hoddesdon
Herts.  EN11 0AH
(for show details; ordinarily you can join the club on the day of a show)

The Rat Fan Club
857 Lindo Lane
Chico, CA  95973
USA
e-mail: ratlady@sierra.net

Rat and Mouse Club of America
13075 Springdale Street #302
Westminster CA 92683 USA
e-mail: RMCA1@aol.com


Recommended Veterinarians (UK)

Heron Veterinary Surgery
101 Central Road
Mordon, Surrey SM4 5SQ
(0181) 640-2064
Mr. M. H. Treherne

John Grieves and Associates
89a Cherry Hinton Road
Cambridge
(01223) 249331
Ms. Jillian Pearson

Ms. Gillian Alford
119 University Street, Belfast BT7
(01232) 326406
and
490 Antrim Road, Belfast, N. Ireland
(01232) 370397

Also check with the National Fancy Rat Society for a recommended vet near
you.

Leaflet (C) A. Swierzy & A. Horn 1996
atms2@cam.ac.uk
udty075@kcl.ac.uk





