The RMCA's Rat and Mouse Gazette Q&A

This mini-faq is taken from questions answered in the regular Q&A
column of the Rat and Mouse Gazette, a publication of the Rat and
Mouse Club of America.  The RMCA is a non-profit club for rat and
mouse enthusiasts.  For more information on the RMCA, see the web page
at http://www.rmca.org/ or contact us at: RMCA1@aol.com

This document is Copyright 1996 by the RMCA.  It may be redistributed
as long as the content is not modified.

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* CARING FOR RATS & MICE *
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RAT CAGES

Q: What kind of cage is best for rats?

A: Both wire cages and aquariums are suitable for rats. Each type has
advantages and disadvantages. However, any type of cage must be large
enough for the number of animals being housed in it. When purchasing a
cage for a baby rat, be sure to allow plenty of room for the rat to
grow. Most cages manufactured for hamsters do not allow this necessary
room and are therefore unsuitable for rats.
     
Aquariums are easy to clean, keep bedding inside and off of your
floor, but provide less airflow than wire. Also, they do not provide
space for the rats natural desire to climb. They can also make it
difficult for the owner to interact with their pets. Rats housed in
aquariums need daily "out time" to provide necessary exercise unless
the rat happens to be a wheel runner.
     
Wire cages provide better ventilation, allow room for climbing, and
make it very easy to interact with your pet. Certain criteria must be
met when housing your rats in wire cages. The most important feature
is that the cage bottom should be solid. Wire cage bottoms are
uncomfortable for rats to walk on and are very difficult to keep
clean. Bumblefoot (Ulcerative dermatitis) is a fairly common problem
with rats forced to walk on wire. A very important problem to note is
that flat surfaces such as a floor or shelves in multi-level cages
made from half inch by one inch wire are extremely dangerous for rats
feet and legs. They will quite often fall asleep, relax and drop a
foot or leg through, get stuck and upon wakening, panic and break the
limb trying to free itself. Uncoated wire cages also have a tendency
to absorb urine and begin to smell quite bad very quickly. For
excellent cages that meets all the necessary criteria contact Fern
Manufacturing at (818) 365-2615 or write 12501 Gladstone #B3, Sylmar,
CA 91342.

RAT AND MOUSE FOOD

Q: What kind of food should I feed my rats and mice? Is it okay to
feed table scraps?

A: Laboratory pellets or Lab blocks as they are referred to, should be
considered to be your pets basic diet. These blocks are nutritionally
balanced for rats and mice and are used exclusively by many
laboratories and breeders as the animals entire diet.
     
Most pet owners prefer to add variety to their pet's diet and
suitable additions are a good rat and mouse mix (grain and seed mix) a
few times a week, along with fresh fruits, vegetables, and healthy
table scraps. Most rats love chicken and the bones will not harm
them. Treats may be added sparingly.

BEDDING

Q: I've heard that Cedar shavings are bad for rats and mice; is this
true?

A: YES! Both Cedar and Pine shavings contain phenols, the oils in the
wood that give them their fresh and woodsy smell which are toxic to
small animals and should not be used at any cost. Problems from using
these beddings include lung, liver, and kidney damage which sometimes
isn't apparent until it is too late.
     
Appropriate beddings are shavings made from hardwood such as
Aspen, paper product beddings, corncob, and even rabbit pellets. The
most highly recommended are Sani-Chips (800-631-1926), which are a
heat-treated Aspen wood chip, Shredded Aspen, and Aspen
shavings. There are also several excellent paper products available
that are equally recommended; CareFRESH (800-242-2287), Gentle Touch
(402-371-3311), Bio Flush (800-482-3130), Yesterday's News
(800-267-5287), and Eco-Bedding (800-726-7257).

WATERING

Q: How much water should I give my rat each day?

A: Rats and mice should always have fresh water available in a
demand-type water bottle. Bowls can be tipped over, leaving the rat
with no water for long periods of time, depending on how often you
check on your pets. They can also be contaminated with all kinds of
bacteria due to contact with bedding and feces. The average rat will
drink about one ounce of water per day, but some large males may drink
up to two ounces per day. Flavoring the water will sometimes make them
drink more, and feeding lots of fresh fruits and vegetables containing
a lot of moisture will make them drink less.

CLEANING

Q: What should I use to clean my cages?

A: Parvosol is a germicidal, virucidal, veterinary
cleaner-disinfectant that we use to clean our rat and mouse cages. It
was recommended to me by my vet years ago (when we were using Windex
with Ammonia D--a no-no), and has caught on as the cleaner to use in
the rat fancy. It has a fresh wintergreen scent that also makes it
nice to use. Roccal D or any other veterinary cleaner/disinfectant
will do just fine.

CAGE TOYS

Q: What kind of toys can I put in my rats cage?

A: Wheels are a favorite of most rat owners and can be introduced at
any age, but best results are achieved by acquainting the rat with one
while it is very young. A rat that is a runner most often remains a
runner for life and will spend a great deal of time doing so. Females
are more inclined to be runners than males. If you would like to try
introducing a wheel to an older rat, I recommend leaving it in the
cage for at least two weeks. If the rat does not begin to run in that
time period it is unlikely that he/she will ever become a runner. In
this case, you might as well remove the wheel and allow the rat to
have more room to move about in the cage.
     
Other ideas for rat toys can be found in the bird section of your
pet store. Ladders, ropes, perches, etc. make excellent toys for your
pets, but be aware that unless they are metal, they will likely be
chewed up in a short period of time.

WOOD HOUSES

Q: Is it okay to have a wood 'house' in my rat's cage?

A: Wood houses are fine as long as they are cleaned and disinfected
often. Urine easily soaks into wood and this buildup can cause or
worsen respiratory disease if they are not cleaned often
enough. Offering nesting material such as clean white paper towels
(which should be changed daily) can help lengthen the amount of time
needed between cleanings. Clean wooden houses with a mild bleach
solution, rinse very well, and dry them in the sun. Anything wood will
most likely be chewed up by your rats, so don't be disappointed when
you have to replace it!

MALE OR FEMALE

Q: Is there any difference in disposition between male and female
rats?

A: Both sexes make wonderful pets. Females have a tendency to be much
more curious and active. Males, on the otherhand, are normally happier
sitting on your lap and having you scratch their head.

QUANTITY

Q: How many rats or mice should I get?

A: Rats and mice are very social animals and should always be housed
with others of their kind. Male mice must be introduced when very
young if they are to be housed together, but with care, most male rats
can be introduced when older.
     
We recommend that you do not house rats or mice of the opposite sex
together or you will continuously have babies. We also recommend that
you do not breed unless you can find good pet homes for each and every
baby.

INTRODUCTIONS

Q: What is the best procedure for introducing strange rats together? Is it
possible to introduce two males without them getting in a big fight?

A: The first step in introducing strange rats together is to allow
them to spend a little time together in a neutral area. Start with a
few minutes on the couch or on your bed. If they begin to fight, place
them back in their own cages. Do this every night for a couple of
weeks if you can. When you feel they are comfortable with each other,
clean and completely disinfect the cage you intend to keep them in and
be sure to do the same with all of the cage accessories. You need to
make sure that it is neutral territory. Dab some vanilla extract on
the bridge of the nose (between the nose and the eyes), on the back,
and on the genitals of each rat. Place them both in the cage and give
them a really tasty treat. Hopefully, if all goes right, they will be
too busy eating their treat and licking the vanilla off to be
concerned with fighting. This does not always work, but is frequently
successful. This procedure can be done with both males and females.

PLAYTIME

Q: Is it okay to play with my rat outside?

A: It is a good idea to wait until your rat knows you very well before
you decide to take it outside for playtime. While outside, make sure
it is not too hot and he can get into the shade and get to fresh water
when he needs to. Rats are nocturnal (active during the night and
resting during the day) and don't do very well in the heat or in the
sun. Pink-eyed rats should always be kept out of the sun as it causes
their eyes to swell and prolonged exposure can result in permanent eye
damage, including blindness.
     
Keep a close eye on your pet while outside as they can quickly get
into places that could be unsafe (i.e., under the house, in the
garden, etc.).  Remember to constantly watch out for other animals,
such as your neighbors' dogs and cats, and even predatory birds
overhead.

LIFESPAN

Q: How long will my pet rats and mice live?

A: The average lifespan of a pet rat is currently two to three years,
while the pet mouse normally lives one to two years, but genetics,
husbandry, and love will ultimately determine how long your pets
live. Animals bred from healthy parents will live longer than those
bred from weak and sickly animals, and animals fed a healthy diet that
are kept in clean cages using the proper beddings will live longer
than those fed junk food who live in dirty cages on pine or cedar.
     
Love and attention can sometimes also play a big role in how long your
pet will live. A neglected animal will be depressed and sometimes just
wither away, while an animal given lots of attention and love will
live months beyond life expectancy because they are happy and have a
much stronger will to live.

SICKNESS 

Q: What are some of the signs I can look out for to be able to tell if
my rat is sick?

A: Red discharge around the eyes and nose is sometimes a common sign,
but can also be present simply due to stress or an irritant such as
dust. The harderian gland, which lies behind the rats eyeball,
secretes a red porphyrin-rich secretion that lubricates the eye and
eyelids. This secretion sometimes gives the appearance of blood, but
it contains little or no blood.

Excessive sneezing is probably the most common sign of illness.
Lethargy, loss of appetite, dull coat, puffy appearance of coat, loud
or raspy breathing, and labored breathing are all signs of respiratory
illness and are a very good indication that your rat needs to see a
vet immediately.

SCABS, AKA SPOTS

Q: My rat is scratching and has scabs on his face and shoulders. Does
he have mites?

A: It is possible that it is mites, but most often scabs are caused by
too much protein in the diet which causes hot spots that the rats
scratch, creating scabs (this condition can also affect mice). Try
eliminating or cutting back on the amount of sunflower seeds, peanuts,
and dog food in your rat's diet first and see if the scabs
disappear. If the scabs are still present after two weeks, then
chances are it is mites. The horse-wormer product "Zimecterin" or
Rotectin 1" can be used very easily to rid your pet of mites (or lice,
which appear as little red bugs on the skin with tiny eggs on the hair
shaft). Give your rat a small amount of the paste (about the size of
an uncooked grain of white rice on the end of a toothpick) orally, and
repeat again in three weeks.

SPAY AND NEUTER

Q: Is it better to have a rat fixed, as far as health and longevity?

A: There are both benefits and risks involved with spaying a female
rat and neutering a male rat. The obvious benefit for both sexes is
that they no longer have reproductive organs that can sometimes cause
health problems later in life.
     
With female rats, removing the reproductive organs will lessen their
chances for developing mammary and pituitary tumors, and definitely
makes it impossible for them to get cancer of the uterus or genital
mycoplasma. The risks, on the other hand, are great, as this is a
major surgical procedure which should be done while the rat is quite
young (for the most benefit), and the vet must go into the body cavity
to perform the operation. General anesthesia must be used and can be
considered a risk in itself, as any animal could die while under its
effects (including humans).
     
Neutering male rats is most often done to allow the male to live with
female rats or to stop aggressive behavior, since testicular cancer is
not common in rats. While this procedure is not as invasive as spaying
a female rat, it should still be considered dangerous, as general
anesthesia is required and post operative infection resulting in
abscesses is quite common.  After any surgical procedure, you should
always be sure that your vet sends your rat home with a course of
antibiotics.

QUARANTINE

Q: I want to buy some new rats, but how can I be sure I don't bring
home a deadly virus to my existing pet rats?

A: This is one of the most scary situations we, as pet owners, have to
think about. Unfortunately, most of us who have large numbers of pets
have experienced the loss of some of our pets because we did not
quarantine new animals coming into the colony.
     
New animals must be quarantined for two weeks to a full month. They
must be housed in a completely separate section of your home. Always
handle the "newcomers" last, wash your hand with a germicidal soap
after handling them, and be sure to change your clothes if they come
in contact with them as some viruses can be passed through
fomites. Make sure the new and old rats cannot come in contact with
each other at all.
     
Watch the new rats carefully for any signs of illness and medicate
appropriately if any symptoms appear. After two weeks to a month, if
no signs of illness appear, it will be safe to introduce the newcomers
into your existing colony.

BREEDING

Q: How can you tell when a female rat is in season?

A: It happens every four to five days, mostly in the evening hours,
for 12 hours at a time. You will quite often see the other female(s)
in the cage trying to mount the female in season. If you look at her
vaginal opening it will be open, moist, and kind of purplish in
color. If you touch her hind quarters she will stretch out, putting
her nose and rear end in the air, arch her back downwards, and will
vibrate her ears.

SEPARATING BABIES

Q: At what age do male and female baby rats need to be separated in
order to prevent early breeding?

A: The general rule is to separate the babies from mom by the time
they are five weeks old to avoid a male offspring possibly
impregnating his mother, and separate the males from the females by
six weeks of age.

BREEDING AGES

Q: What are the recommended breeding ages (upper and lower) for female
rats?

A: Female rats can get pregnant as early as five to six weeks of age,
but they really should not be bred until they are three and a half to
four months of age. If they are not bred at that time, they should be
bred (if you plan to breed them at all) before they are eight months
old. If they have a litter between these ages, you can breed them up
until about one year, but I do not recommend breeding them beyond
that.
     
Something to consider as well is that any time you breed a female you
risk losing her in childbirth. It isn't common, but it is a
possibility, so when considering breeding your pet you should always
seriously think about that aspect.
      
If they have not been bred by eight months of age, their chances of
conceiving go down as well. Being overweight will also reduce their
chances of getting pregnant.

IMPOTENCE

Q: Do male rats become impotent or infertile with age?

A: Some males who have been used for breeding while they are somewhat
young will breed almost until the day they die, and some have been
known to continue to breed but lose their ability to impregnate the
female (become infertile). If a male has not been used for breeding
while young, he will sometimes not be interested in breeding at
all. This has been experienced with some Jumbo males who seem to be
interested enough to sniff the female, but either don't know what to
do, or are just too lazy to care.

RAT BATHS

Q: How do you give a rat a bath?

A: Have a towel ready before you begin. Fill both sides of your
kitchen sink with lukewarm water. Dip your rat in one side of the sink
in the water, but only up to the neck. Using a soap made for cats or
kittens, or sometimes even dish washing liquid (I use Dawn on my males
since they tend to have an oily buildup on their skin) apply several
drops on the rats back. Begin working the soap into a good lather and
scrub well with your fingertips. (It is best not to use a brush as you
can apply too much pressure without realizing it.)  Be careful not to
get any water or soap into your rat's eyes or ears. when you feel the
rat is clean, lower him/her into the other side of the sink and
rinse. Again, be careful not to get any water in the rat's eyes or
ears. If you don't feel you can rinse the rat well enough this way you
can hold him/her under a stream of running water, but be sure the
water is not too hot.

HAIRLESS RATS

Q: Is it true that you have to keep Hairless rats warmer than rats
that have fur?

A: I recommend housing Hairless rats with furred rats. Their skin is a
little thicker, but I'm sure they do get colder not having any fur to
keep them warm. If you choose to keep a Hairless rat alone, or with
other Hairless rats, I would recommend that you give it, or them a box
of some sort to sleep in, small enough to hold in their body heat. You
might also like to give them an old T-shirt or something equivalent to
help them stay warm as well. Be sure to launder any fabric frequently.

TEETH GRINDING

Q: When my rat is sitting with me, sometimes her head shivers slightly
and she makes funny noises with her teeth as if chewing on something,
but she's not eating. Is this "teeth grinding"? Is it similar to cat
purring?

A: Yes, this is teeth grinding and they always seem to do this while
they are very content. They also grind their teeth to keep them at the
proper length (as food really has nothing to do with keeping them
short) and this could simply be what they are doing, but I choose to
believe that it is the equivalent of purring.



